Raised on a small farm in Southern Ohio, my grandfather hunted and grew much of the food we ate at the enormous Sunday dinners my grandmother prepared, from tasty quail and rabbit to fresh sweet corn and tomatoes. The piece de resistance was often apple pie, made from fruit harvested from backyard trees. My grandmother was also a subscriber to a magazine called “Prevention” that advocated organic food — a radical idea in the United States in the 1950s.